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In-Flight - A choice of comfort

16/4/2014

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Anyone planning a trip to China will have to book a flight on one of several carriers. The journey is very long ranging between 10 and 15 hours. That’s a very long time to be stuck on a plane.

Most people can’t afford business class which gives you a little more space to stretch out. And there is little difference between airlines as regards the space and comfort in economy or coach class. But the quality of service and meals can make all the difference on such a long journey.

Of course the choice of airline can be driven by price and one’s pocket, but given all things are equal there are some airlines that offer better service than others especially when it comes to meals.

Those travelling from the UK may choose from several airlines. One of the most expensive carriers is Virgin Atlantic, though they occasionally have budget deals. British Airways often comes second in price, but again there are wild fluctuations in how much they charge dependent on when the flight is booked and other factors. KLM is another popular choice and may be cheaper, though one may have to change at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. And of course there is Air China, and while sometimes cheaper, this is not always the case.

Carriers change and team up with others, so you’d be best advised to check current pricing at the time you wish to travel. Suffice to say, the actual service on board has changed little over the last 7 years I’ve been travelling back and forth to the Middle Kingdom.

Virgin’s in-flight meals are said to be good, but I’ve not shelled out on their rather extortionate tickets for a flight to Beijing so am unable to comment.

British Airways can often have some good deals, and it has the advantage over others in that one can book a flight into Beijing and out of Shanghai, or vice versa. This is particularly useful if you’re doing a tour of China.

Staff are always friendly, the only exception to this was during a flight when BA staff were taking industrial action in 2010 and stewards were just a little curt.

Food on British Airways is excellent, and passengers also benefit from an almost constant flow of free drinks. The choice of drinks is extensive from Gin & Tonic to Jack Daniels and Coke, beer, wines and juices, tea and coffee. Picking a special meal, such as a seafood or vegetarian option may result in a slightly better meal than that dished out to the regular passengers. And if hungry between meals one may obtain snacks which are left in the galley at the rear of the plane.

Moving on to KLM, a flight with this airline was moderately good. Staff were not quite as accommodating and in one instance almost rude. Having being given a selection of sandwiches which contained meat despite having chosen a vegetarian option, one raised the issue only to be given a flippant response that one might eat the bits that weren’t meat!

This is the only airline which provided real metal knives forks and spoons, a rarity following 9/11.
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Despite China having an amazing reputation for high cuisine, Chinese airlines fall flat when it comes to their in-flight food and service. The choice of in-flight drinks is limited. There are no spirits though beer is on offer. Some juices, tea and coffee is also available, and sadly for fans of the Real Thing only Pepsi is served on many flights rather than Coca Cola.

As for the food, both meat and vegetarian options are rather pallid compared to what one might find in a restaurant in China. Even China’s street food could be ranked higher than some of the offering by Air China , China Eastern Airlines, Hainan Airlines and others. It is unfortunate, since it is a rather poor advertisement to both China and its culture of food. Of course the plus side is that Air China may often be cheaper than other airlines.

The big drawback comes inside China where there is no choice other than Chinese airlines when it comes to booking internal domestic flights. However, at least these flights are usually short so putting up with sub-standard in-flight meals may not be so much of an issue.

While a little more expensive my choice is to always travel with British Airways, though I would still look and compare prices. When spending up to half a day on a plane little comforts like good food and drink can make all the difference. And whether at the beginning or the end of your journey such things can help make the whole experience more relaxing and enjoyable.

Have a pleasant flight and please check out our video which was shot over several years during trips to and from China and offers a brief look at the quality of in-flight meals provided by various airlines.

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A little taste of Beijing

9/4/2014

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As one flies into Beijing Capital International Airport most people will be struck by the sheer size of the city.

Beijing is a vast metropolis and home to more than 22 million people. And for many visitors they may feel rather overwhelmed by the number of people and the number of cars on the roads.

Tiananmen Square in the centre of the city attracts both tourists and local Chinese, though the square itself is essentially just that, a large empty square with very little to see. However, surrounding the square are several important buildings and tourist attractions.

To the west is the Great Hall of the People which is used for legislative and ceremonial activities by the PRC and the Communist Party of China. On the east side is the National Museum of China which holds vast collections related to the arts and history of China. Admission to the museum is free but visitors should note that security for this and many other attractions is very tight.

Food and drinks may often be inspected and in some cases confiscated. Luggage is also required to be checked and may have to be deposited. Pets are not allowed in the museum and similar restrictions as seen at airports may also be applied with knives, lighters and other dangerous items being banned. Some places may also restrict the use or even entry with cameras or other such devices so it may be worth checking ahead of time!

Within the square itself stands Mao’s mausoleum. Commonly known as the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong or the Mao Mausoleum, it is the final resting place of Mao Zedong, Chairman of the Politburo of the Communist Party of China. Admission is free but note that bags, backpacks, cameras and video cameras, cups and drinks as well as dangerous items are all forbidden.

Despite its name the Forbidden City is not so concerned about cameras and there are many photographic opportunities as one delves back into China’s imperialist past. After passing through Tiananmen Gate and under the large portrait of Mao one will enter the vast grounds of the palace complex. To visit the main palace itself one will need to purchase a ticket. The cost is between 40 and 60 RMB, depending on the time of year, and you will need several hours to really take in what this historical complex has to offer.

Exiting the north side of the palace grounds one will find oneself at the entrance to Jingshan Park. There is a small entrance fee of 1 RMB, common practice with most Chinese parks, but if you have time it is well worth a visit especially for the hill top views across the city.

There are several other great vantage points to take in the city. On a clear day take a trip to the CCTV tower in the west of town. Now known as the Central Radio & TV Tower it offers amazing views in all directions. For a more comfortable and relaxing view of the city drop by the Atmosphere Bar which is located on the 80th floor of the World Trade Center in the Chaoyang District, or central business district, of Beijing.

On a clear day one can see the mountains that surround this vast city. And it is in these mountains that one will find one of China’s most famous historical monuments, the Great Wall.

There are several sections of wall, and while they cover many hundred kilometres many sections are separate from each other and were built during different eras. Many sections are also in a state of disrepair. However there are other sections which are well preserved.

The most well known section is Badaling which is around 60 km to the northwest of Beijing. While most sections of the wall open to tourists are somewhat commercial, this is perhaps to most commercialised with ski-lifts, restaurants, hotels and other amenities situated close to the attraction. Badaling can also be one of the most crowded sections of wall.

For a more tranquil experience try to visit Mutianyu which is 70 km northeast of central Beijing. While much older, construction began in the 6th century and continued for many centuries thereafter, Mutianyu has been well maintained and restored. Furthermore it has some amazing views, especially at sunset.

Even further afield is Jinshanling which is some 125 km northeast of Beijing. While some parts are well preserved, this section is very much in a state of ruin. But for some, sections of so-called ‘wild wall’ provide a better insight and feel to the past rather than the clinical restored sections.

Wherever you decide to visit and at whatever season, there are few people that won’t be astounded at the sheer scale of the wall, and its beauty. Even in winter the wall provides an amazing backdrop for photos, though getting there in knee deep snow may prove a problem.

In early 2010 an attempt to get to the Juyongguan section some 50 km outside of Beijing proved to be a real adventure. As temperatures fell as low as -18°C and heavy snow covered much of Beijing public transport came to a stop. Taxis too were hard to find but eventually we managed to find a private hire driver.

Avoiding blocked highways full of snowbound trucks, past several accidents along the way, we ploughed through the back roads before eventually arriving at the wall, a journey which took nearly two hours.

Despite road conditions some tourist coaches had still managed to get through the snow, though many had difficulty returning as conditions worsening into the evening!
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After expeditions up and down the Great Wall you might prefer to do some shopping. You will not be disappointed, indeed you will be spoilt for choice. From the fake goods at the infamous Silk Market to the kitsch items to be found in Nanluoguxiang or ‘antiques’ and other curios at the Panjiayuan Market you will have no shortage of choices to part with a few dollars! For some pricey pearls head to the Hongqiao Market in Tiantan Donglu near the Temple of Heaven park.

For more mundane shopping why not head to the Tianyi Market at 259 Fuchengmen Outer Street in Xicheng district. This massive arcade is home to hundreds of stores selling almost everything under the sun and at very cheap prices. 

Another great store for your average shopping experience is the Bairong World Trade Center at 101 Yongdingmen Outer Street, in the Dongcheng district of Beijing. This is a massive shopping centre in south Beijing in which one can buy almost anything, There are several floors and the entire complex covers 39,000 square metres. Each floor specialises in different products, from women's clothing, consumer products, toys, men's clothing etc. There are also several places to eat mostly at the front of the building on the ground floor. While catering more to local clientèle, expats will also likely find the store accommodating to their needs. Don't expect to see everything in a day, it would take weeks to see everything here.
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Nearer to the centre of town is the shopping malls of Xidan in the west or the well known Wangfujing, a bustling hive of activity with many shops and stores. It is also famous for its street food where one can sample unusual snacks such as scorpions or fried insects!

Of course if scorpions aren’t to your taste there are many other dishes to be enjoyed in this huge city. From Korean barbecue, Japanese sushi and all manner of Chinese cuisine, Beijing is a culinary adventure. There are few good western style restaurants, and they tend to be expensive, though for those suffering withdrawal symptoms can pop into the many branches of McDonalds, Pizza Hut and Burger King that are dotted all over town. One of the better pizza restaurants is Annies where you can get a tasty Margherita for as little as 38 RMB.

For those with a liking for Sichuan flavours head to one of the many branches of Spice Spirit [麻辣诱惑] or one of the several Yu Xin [渝信] Sichuan restaurants.

There are dozens of great restaurants, but sadly one has not space to refer to them all. 
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At night Beijing really comes alive and one is never short of entertainment. Whether on the streets, at bars or in clubs there is some something for everyone. Though some bars are a little pricey many provide free music and even some clubs offer free admission.

For a more cultural evening perhaps you might like to relax at the National Centre for Performing Arts listening to some Tchaikovsky or watching a ballet at the Tian Qiao Theatre.

As said, such a short article cannot cover everything there is to see in Beijing. There are many interesting hutongs and streets, dozens of museums, countless historical attractions, many beautiful parks, interesting and exotic bars, restaurants and clubs, and a shopping experience to die for.

Indeed you’ll certainly leave Beijing exhausted, but with some great memories. And more than likely you’ll want to return to this interesting and diverse capital; a city of tradition, culture and entertainment. We hope at least you enjoyed this little taste of Beijing.

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Exploring Yunnan - Part 2

11/3/2014

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Yunnan has a diverse culture and one is never far from seeing this displayed in song and dance, be it on city streets or in tourist hotspots across the province.

In Kunming, people will often gather to sing traditional songs, sometimes in local dialects. And at night public squares are often full of people who come to practice their dance steps.

The southern province is home to hundreds of Buddhist temples. Indeed it is arguably the most practiced faith in Yunnan. In fact there are three main divisions of Buddhism: Hynayana Buddhism, Mahayana Buddhism and Tibetan Buddhism (Lamaism). Moreover, Hynayana Buddhism exists only in Yunnan province.

Even if not a practicing Buddhist, these temples can bring peace and tranquillity to anyone who visits.

Yunnan cuisine

Food of course is perhaps the thing most praised by the Chinese, and Yunnan offers some amazing culinary fare. With a rich ethnic population there is a varied range of dishes offered from the fragrant fish dishes of the Dai people to the spicy dishes of the Bai ethnic minority.

Of course one cannot cover the rich diversity in such a short article. Indeed, Yunnan’s diversity in food could pack a small book.

One important ingredient in many Yunnan dishes is chili. This spicy fruit is everywhere and it may often feel like there is hardly a dish that does not utilise this fiery condiment.

For those less keen on chili a visit to a stone pot fish restaurant may be particularly welcome. Here, fish is boiled in soup and consumed with various condiments. Often the pot may be split in two thus offering a choice for those who want a spicy dish and another for those with a more sensitive palate.

Smelly tofu & snacks

Another acquired taste is smelly tofu, or chòu dòufu [臭豆腐]. This fermented tofu snack is popular all across Yunnan where it is usually sold at street stalls and consumed with beer.

Spicy crayfish is another favourite. Known as Málà xiǎo lóngxiā [麻辣小龙虾] this is not strictly a Yunnan dish, but is nonetheless enjoyed across the province with a beer on summer evenings. Whilst there is health risk due to the polluted waters these crustaceans often live in, few people are put off given how delicious they are.

But Yunnan does have some very clean waterways and Jianshui is particularly renowned for its natural wells which locals still draw their water from. The water is also used in the making of smelly tofu and Jianshui is famous for its own particular brand of this smelly snack.

Vietnam

Much further south is the town of Hekou which borders with Vietnam. Crossing into Yunnan’s southern neighbour reveals a very different culinary adventure. Only a few kilometres from the border is Sapa where one can enjoy salmon hot pot and gỏi cuốn, a type of Vietnamese spring roll. This Vietnamese dish traditionally consists of salad vegetable and other ingredients such as raw salmon marinated in lemon juice all wrapped in a thin sheet of rice paper known as bánh tráng.

Puzhehei

Travelling south-east of Yunnan’s capital Kunming is Puzhehei in Qiubei county. This scenic area is home to beautiful caves, lakes and green mountains. As well as a tourist destination the region is also an important centre for rice production. In the late summer months peasants can be seen harvesting what is Yunnan’s biggest crop and threshing the rice in the streets before bagging up the valuable staple food.

Ethnic diversity

To the south of Kunming is one of Yunnan’s most famous tourist spots. Located in Shilin Yi Autonomous County is the Stone Forest, a bizarre array of limestone rock formations. Visitors may also be treated to performances by the Sani people, a sub-group of the Yi ethnic minority. But you don’t need to travel into rural Yunnan to find the province’s ethnic groups. Even in Kunming’s city centre members of ethnic minorities may gather to play music and entertain crowds, especially near to the Green Lake.

This brings us to the end of our journey through Yunnan. Of course there are many sights we haven’t covered, such as the pagodas of Dali and the old town of Lijiang to the north-west. We could only touch on the diversity of Yunnan’s food and its ethnic culture. But hopefully our short introduction has given you a taste of what is arguably one of China’s most interesting regions.

Related: Exploring Yunnan - Part 1

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Exploring Yunnan - Part 1

3/3/2014

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In this short series or article we explore a little bit of China. We start in Yunnan, to the south-west. Yunnan borders Burma [Myanmar], Laos and Vietnam and this has brought many influences. The French built railway which once connected Kunming to Vietnam brought much trade before it was shut because of conflict with the Japanese.

The French who had occupied Vietnam for some time brought their winemaking skills to Yunnan and some of the best wines in China come from this region.

Pu’er tea

But Yunnan is also well known for its tea, particularly Pu’er tea, a variety of fermented dark tea. During the  fermentation the tea undergoes a microbial fermentation and oxidation process after they are dried and rolled. This process is a Chinese specialty and produces tea known as Hei Cha [黑茶], commonly translated as dark, or black tea, though this is different from the black tea seen in the west which would in China be referred to as "red tea" or Hong Cha [红茶].

Whilst such tea come from many parts of Yunnan and China, Pu’er is one of the most highly prized teas in the country and can fetch hundreds or even thousands of dollars for a 500 gram packet. There are of course teas set at a price more affordable to an average wallet, and one may often taste before you buy. Indeed tea shops are much easier to find than a branch of Starbucks!

Moving south of Pu’er is the town of Mohan which sits on the Laos, China border. This remote town was once very popular and attracted many Chinese who would stop over before popping across to Boten on the Laos side. Boten was once a thriving gambling town with casinos and nightclubs, and many Chinese were attracted to this little outpost because gambling is illegal in China.

Laos border

However pressure from the Chinese government forced Laos to close down these ventures and so the games ended. Now Boten is little more than a ghost town. A few restaurants still exist, but tourists rarely go beyond the border post for a Beer Lao before boarding their coach to the Lao capital Vientiane, or returning to China should they merely be popping out of China to meet visa requirements.

Nonetheless, this little Lao border is still an important crossing point. It is the only legal land crossing between China and Laos and provides an all too important shipping route for products flowing between the two countries. The border is only open between 8:00 and 17:00 and in the early hours lorries begin to join the queue to cross south into Laos.

Botanical gardens

Returning north is the town of Mengla, which is home to the Xishuangbanna Tropical Botanical Gardens. As well as a popular tourist attraction this facility is engaged in biodiversity conservation and sustainable uses of plant resources, focusing on forest ecosystem ecology, conservation biology and resource plant development.

Covering an area of 1,125 hectares it is home to more than 13,000 species of tropical plants, some from other subtropical and tropical regions around the world. They include the so-called sensitive plant [Mimosa Pudica], a creeping annual or perennial herb often grown for its curiosity value. Its compound leaves fold inward and droop when touched or shaken, a process it has developed in order to protect itself from predators.

Xishuangbanna & Yuanyang county

To the west is the town of Xishuangbanna, a popular tourist town and home to the Mengle Dafo Temple and its huge statue of Buddha which looks over the town.

Travelling north again is Yuanyang county famous for its spectacular rice-paddy terracing. Covering an area of 2,200 square km this area changes dramatically with the seasons. The majority of the inhabitants of the county are from the Hani ethnic group and they use traditional farming methods.

Indeed Yunnan is home to twenty five different ethnic groups nearly half of China’s 56 recognised ethnic groups. In fact around 38% of the province's population are made up of ethnic minorities, including the Yi, Bai, Hani, Tai, Dai, Miao, Lisu, Hui, Lahu, Va, Nakhi, Yao, Tibetan, Jingpo, Blang, Pumi, Nu, Achang, Jinuo, Mongolian, Derung, Manchu, Sui, and Buyei. It makes Yunnan the second most diverse province as far as its ethnic groups are concerned.

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